Saturday, November 5, 2011
The importance of tagging your dog.
Tagging your dog may seem to a lot of people as slightly ridiculous. They may say "If my dog runs away, I'll just check the local Humane Society every few days, he'll show up" but thats not always true. Dogs when seen as strays, even with a collar on, are "adopted" by whoever found him. They may put up signs, ads, and notices that they found a stray, hoping to find his owner. But the truth is, the chances of the owner finding him in those situations are very slim. Most people are unwilling to give a dog to the Humane Society, scared that if it doesn't get adopted, he may be put down. Even if they notify the Humane Society that they found a stray, it usually gets lost under the massive amount of work the Humane Society does. Often if a person is visiting your area and finds your dog, they will take him home with them, hoping they will find his owner later. A neighbor dog ran away for a few hours, and was found a long 50 miles away, driven their by a woman who found him at the beach. Another thing to think about, is if your dog bit another dog, and he was untagged. Your dog may be seem as a agressive stray, and be put down immediately before you can find him and prove otherwise. All this hassle and stress of finding your dog, can be eliminated with a simple $5.00 tag. All the information you need is a phone number where you can be reached at, and helpful, but not needed, your dogs name. When you get a call (but hopefully you'll never have to) from somebody who found your dog, you'll be glad you tagged him.
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Brrrrrr, its getting cold. Even with all their fur, dogs and cats need to stay warm in colder months, just like us. Older pets suffer from arthritis, which gets worse in the cold, so keeping them warm is a must. A great place to start keeping your pet warm is in your home. Most of us set our thermostats low in winter, to keep down heating costs, but it's the pets that often suffer. Think about buying a small heater (a pet safe one, of course), to put in your pet's favorite room to sleep, or next to his bed. Remember that it is much colder where he's sleeping on the floor, than your bed. When buying a pet bed, a good idea is to look for one with a heater pad. There are a variety; regular looking beds, chiropractic foam, reflective heat insulators, adjustable heat pads, and more, depending on your pet, budget, and looks. You'll find something to suit you and your pets needs. Dogs will often head straight to there warm bed after coming in from the cold. They will use it. Keeping your dog warm when he goes outside, is also good to think about. Many pets won't even go out for a walk, or to play, when it gets too cold. My dog was the same, until I purchased him a sweater, and a full snowsuit. Dog clothes may seem to some as ridiculous, but for a lot of dogs, especially small ones, they serve a great purpose. Not only will your dog look adorable, but he'll go outside for a much longer time. With that, he'll also stay more healthy and active. Boots are also very useful, namely for dogs with long fur surrounding their paws. Because they keep the snow from sticking to the fur surrounding there paws, they keep there feet warmer. As a example, dogs pads have the same sensitivity as the palm of your hand, and try sticking that in the snow! Look at your local PETCO, or online, (www.petedge.com is one of my favorites) and you'll find a HUGE variety of pet clothes and boots. Big, small, they have them all. Remember to measure your dog before you buy. For clothes, measure from his collar to the base of his tail. Some clothes are just for looks, so try to find one that advertises it will keep your dog warm. Look to purchase a coat or sweater that seems strong, warm, and will dry out quick. If your dog wants to go out again, you wouldn't want him wearing wet clothes. You might even want to purchase two for that same reason. If you have a male dog, make sure the belly cut is high enough, so he doesn't pee inside it. For boots, get a piece of paper and a pencil. Lay his paw on the paper, and draw a line at the back of his pad, and another at the front of his claws. Allow a little extra (1/8 to 1/4 inch is usually good) and purchase the boots which match the final measurement closest. If your having trouble finding some, purchase boots that are a little bigger instead of smaller, I learned that the hard way. You might want to check if the store you purchase your clothes or boots from allows returns. Sometimes, like our clothes, they just don't fit right. That's all for this month. Keep warm, and have fun shopping with your pet!
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Keeping your pets calm and safe during the holidays.
Holidays, can be a nervous and dangerous time of year for your pets, dogs especially. Unknown visitors, constant trips, toxic decorations, and foods that are poisonous to dogs, can lead to a unhealthy, and nervous animal during the holidays. When planning for the holidays, always include your dog in the planning. A few things you should consider are:
• If you will be gone for more than a few hours, try to have someone "on call" to take care of your dog. A last minute stranger, or kennel visit, will probably just stress your dog out more than he needs to be.
• Keep food out of Fido's reach. Desserts, are usually mostly chocolate and sugar, a deadly mix for dogs. Other foods, like a Christmas turkey, or platter of hors d'oeuvres, may leave your dog sick if he gets to it, a extra hassle when your busy enough already. Keeping him in a different room when your eating, or setting the food in a high out of reach spot, will best for both of you.
• Decorations. Puppy's, dogs teething, or even older dogs, like to get into mischief. You wouldn't to come home to Spot chewing your heirloom ornament, or finding he ate all the popcorn off your tree, along with the string. Dogs also commonly choke, and suffocate on decorations. Supervise him as much as possible when your home, and when you leave, put away anything he might get ahold of, and possibly kennel him for the time being.
• Traveling with your pet? If possible driving will probably keep him more calm than flying. Try to bring him his favorite toys, his regular bed, and food. The more at home he feels, the calmer he'll be.
• If your having guests stay, or just visiting, try to urge them to leave there own pets at home. The excitement of meeting a new friend, along with all the hustle and bustle, will probably be to much for him. If your pet is still acting stressed, you may want to set him up his own room, with his toys, bed, food and water. Sticking a note on the door, "Do Not Disturb" and playing the radio/TV in that room, will drown out the noise, keeping your dog more calm.
I also strongly urge you to not give or encourage people to give a puppy as a present during this time. The dangers of the holidays to pets, especially curious and playful puppies, is enormous. Also the new dog owner wont have enough time to properly care for a new puppy, and he will end up depressed, or develop destructive behaviors. Also, a good breeder will not breed for the holidays, for this reason. If a breeder is urging you to give a puppy as a holiday gift, he is probably more worried about profits, than the dog's welfare. If you want to give a puppy as a holiday gift, give a promise for a puppy, as soon as the holidays are over.
Wishes for a happy, healthy holiday season.
• If you will be gone for more than a few hours, try to have someone "on call" to take care of your dog. A last minute stranger, or kennel visit, will probably just stress your dog out more than he needs to be.
• Keep food out of Fido's reach. Desserts, are usually mostly chocolate and sugar, a deadly mix for dogs. Other foods, like a Christmas turkey, or platter of hors d'oeuvres, may leave your dog sick if he gets to it, a extra hassle when your busy enough already. Keeping him in a different room when your eating, or setting the food in a high out of reach spot, will best for both of you.
• Decorations. Puppy's, dogs teething, or even older dogs, like to get into mischief. You wouldn't to come home to Spot chewing your heirloom ornament, or finding he ate all the popcorn off your tree, along with the string. Dogs also commonly choke, and suffocate on decorations. Supervise him as much as possible when your home, and when you leave, put away anything he might get ahold of, and possibly kennel him for the time being.
• Traveling with your pet? If possible driving will probably keep him more calm than flying. Try to bring him his favorite toys, his regular bed, and food. The more at home he feels, the calmer he'll be.
• If your having guests stay, or just visiting, try to urge them to leave there own pets at home. The excitement of meeting a new friend, along with all the hustle and bustle, will probably be to much for him. If your pet is still acting stressed, you may want to set him up his own room, with his toys, bed, food and water. Sticking a note on the door, "Do Not Disturb" and playing the radio/TV in that room, will drown out the noise, keeping your dog more calm.
I also strongly urge you to not give or encourage people to give a puppy as a present during this time. The dangers of the holidays to pets, especially curious and playful puppies, is enormous. Also the new dog owner wont have enough time to properly care for a new puppy, and he will end up depressed, or develop destructive behaviors. Also, a good breeder will not breed for the holidays, for this reason. If a breeder is urging you to give a puppy as a holiday gift, he is probably more worried about profits, than the dog's welfare. If you want to give a puppy as a holiday gift, give a promise for a puppy, as soon as the holidays are over.
Wishes for a happy, healthy holiday season.
Thursday, October 13, 2011
Training your puppy.
When you first start training your new puppy, you will find he what he responds to best. Toys, treats, or affection. You will also start to learn if your puppy deals with distractions (noise, people, other pets, etc.) Just take your time and be patient.
The easiest way to start training your new puppy, is to start in a quiet, well lit room, least distractions possible is best. Bring treats, his/her favorite toy, and bring your patience. Some dogs will catch on easier then others, so make sure if you are using a training schedule, to allow less or more time, depending on your dog. You may also want to purchase a clicker, which is a small box that "clicks" when pressed. This allows you to mark the exact time your puppy did the right thing, making it easier for him to learn. Below, I'll go into a simple step by step training process.I will show you how to train with treats, as most dogs respond to treats well. If you decide to train with toys or affection, just opt. out the treats, and add in your reward.
Clicker (optional): if you decide to purchase a clicker, you must first train your dog to realize the "click" means "good boy" and that he/she will get a treat, toy, or affection. Start by clicking the clicker, and saying "good boy", and giving him a treat. After 15-30 times, (depending on your dog) stop saying "good boy" and just click the clicker, and give him/her a treat. You will soon see your dog "catching on" realizing what the click means. Good job!
Sit: Possibly the easiest command to train, is sit. Start by backing your puppy up to a wall, and then holding the treat over and behind his head, while saying sit, until he sits down trying to get the treat, click your clicker then. Keep repeating until you must just say sit once, and he obeys. You may also want to add in hand signals, as these can be very useful in noisy environments. Invent your own, or the most popular is to stick your arm out strait, palm up, and flexing your elbow in, so your hand is strait up.
Stay: Training stay before come, makes training come so much easier, I learned that out the hard way. Sit your pup down, and stick you arm out, with your palm facing him, and say stay. After a second or two, click, and give him him reward. Slowly lengthen your time, until you feel that your dogs understands. Now, take a step back, then click, and return to your dog with his reward. Make sure to not let your dog move, walking TOWARD HIM, not visa versa. Keep taking more steps back, and more rewards, until your dog is staying for atleast 1 minute or more. Also make him stay standing too, as that will take more will power for him to do.
Come: To train come, Sit, and stay your dog. Take a few steps back, and then with your arm sticking strait out and palm to the left, flex your arm to the left, as if your putting your hand on your heart, and say come. When he gets DIRECTLY next to your feet, click, and reward. Keep practicing, until your dog comes even when he occupied.
Remember, with all of these training tricks, slowly accustom him to more and more distractions. You can also try to just use hand signals, or just voice, and see how he responds. Use these methods, into all training, and soon you'll have obedient friend for life. Enjoy, and remember to please share, as Im trying to expand this blog.
The easiest way to start training your new puppy, is to start in a quiet, well lit room, least distractions possible is best. Bring treats, his/her favorite toy, and bring your patience. Some dogs will catch on easier then others, so make sure if you are using a training schedule, to allow less or more time, depending on your dog. You may also want to purchase a clicker, which is a small box that "clicks" when pressed. This allows you to mark the exact time your puppy did the right thing, making it easier for him to learn. Below, I'll go into a simple step by step training process.I will show you how to train with treats, as most dogs respond to treats well. If you decide to train with toys or affection, just opt. out the treats, and add in your reward.
Clicker (optional): if you decide to purchase a clicker, you must first train your dog to realize the "click" means "good boy" and that he/she will get a treat, toy, or affection. Start by clicking the clicker, and saying "good boy", and giving him a treat. After 15-30 times, (depending on your dog) stop saying "good boy" and just click the clicker, and give him/her a treat. You will soon see your dog "catching on" realizing what the click means. Good job!
Sit: Possibly the easiest command to train, is sit. Start by backing your puppy up to a wall, and then holding the treat over and behind his head, while saying sit, until he sits down trying to get the treat, click your clicker then. Keep repeating until you must just say sit once, and he obeys. You may also want to add in hand signals, as these can be very useful in noisy environments. Invent your own, or the most popular is to stick your arm out strait, palm up, and flexing your elbow in, so your hand is strait up.
Stay: Training stay before come, makes training come so much easier, I learned that out the hard way. Sit your pup down, and stick you arm out, with your palm facing him, and say stay. After a second or two, click, and give him him reward. Slowly lengthen your time, until you feel that your dogs understands. Now, take a step back, then click, and return to your dog with his reward. Make sure to not let your dog move, walking TOWARD HIM, not visa versa. Keep taking more steps back, and more rewards, until your dog is staying for atleast 1 minute or more. Also make him stay standing too, as that will take more will power for him to do.
Come: To train come, Sit, and stay your dog. Take a few steps back, and then with your arm sticking strait out and palm to the left, flex your arm to the left, as if your putting your hand on your heart, and say come. When he gets DIRECTLY next to your feet, click, and reward. Keep practicing, until your dog comes even when he occupied.
Remember, with all of these training tricks, slowly accustom him to more and more distractions. You can also try to just use hand signals, or just voice, and see how he responds. Use these methods, into all training, and soon you'll have obedient friend for life. Enjoy, and remember to please share, as Im trying to expand this blog.
Housebreaking your puppy.
When you bring a new puppy home to meet the family, it is an exciting time for everyone involved. Your family's attention will be soaked up by your new arrival. But, as the little guy adapts to his environment, it will become obvious that with this new arrival comes the tasks of responsibility and patience.
To have the ability to train your puppy will become essential. Your new arrival will rely on you to help him adjust to his new environment. His behaviors from here on out will determine on your guidance and leadership.
The way your puppy behaves will be solely in your hands. Many puppy owners are surprised when their puppy acts untrained. The little guy is having accidents all over the house, he is chewing on items in your house you would rather him not chew on, he barks, digs and so on.
Keep in mind that training your new pup will require patience and repetition, which will be a time consuming process. This will be more then worth it though, if you are one that truly loves and care for your pup and want him to succeed in having a happy life.
Beginning with training early on and having your pup interact with other puppies will help your puppy mature into a well trained dog. Your pup will need dedication and accountability that will help him throughout his life.
To give the best possibility of success with you puppy, you will need to instill basic obedience; leash training, puppy interaction, and house training right from the get go.
The best way to train your puppy is through means of encouragement and positive interaction. As soon as you bring your puppy home, begin your puppy training by offering praise and rewards when your puppy does something correct.
To help your puppy achieve his best, it will be important to focus on creating good habits and preventing the bad ones. It is best to start your puppy off right, instead of having to correct bad habits he has learned over time.
When you are developing good habits for your puppy, it helps to be consistent. Also, begin your training with simpler commands and always follow through multiple times by developing a repetition. Keep your training exercises short as your pup is new to this and may lose focus over longer periods of time.
You will find that if you earn the trust and respect of your puppy, he will be able to comprehend and sustain the new knowledge instilled in him quicker versus using punishment or harsh corrections.
Before you know it, you will recognize your puppy wanting to be trained. The happier your pup is, the more he will be excited to be trained and have willingness to learn.
Patience in yourself is strongly encouraged as your puppy is still a young little guy and doesn't understand what exactly you are trying to accomplish in the beginning. Being realistic and understanding of this will increase his chances of successfully mastering his training.
This information will be new to you pup. Move past the shortcomings and focus on his journey, starting from where he came from when you brought him home.
This part of your puppy's life is very important. Once your puppy senses that you are enjoying the training exercises as much as he is, you will be able to create a strong, trusting bond with him that will last a lifetime.
To have the ability to train your puppy will become essential. Your new arrival will rely on you to help him adjust to his new environment. His behaviors from here on out will determine on your guidance and leadership.
The way your puppy behaves will be solely in your hands. Many puppy owners are surprised when their puppy acts untrained. The little guy is having accidents all over the house, he is chewing on items in your house you would rather him not chew on, he barks, digs and so on.
Keep in mind that training your new pup will require patience and repetition, which will be a time consuming process. This will be more then worth it though, if you are one that truly loves and care for your pup and want him to succeed in having a happy life.
Beginning with training early on and having your pup interact with other puppies will help your puppy mature into a well trained dog. Your pup will need dedication and accountability that will help him throughout his life.
To give the best possibility of success with you puppy, you will need to instill basic obedience; leash training, puppy interaction, and house training right from the get go.
The best way to train your puppy is through means of encouragement and positive interaction. As soon as you bring your puppy home, begin your puppy training by offering praise and rewards when your puppy does something correct.
To help your puppy achieve his best, it will be important to focus on creating good habits and preventing the bad ones. It is best to start your puppy off right, instead of having to correct bad habits he has learned over time.
When you are developing good habits for your puppy, it helps to be consistent. Also, begin your training with simpler commands and always follow through multiple times by developing a repetition. Keep your training exercises short as your pup is new to this and may lose focus over longer periods of time.
You will find that if you earn the trust and respect of your puppy, he will be able to comprehend and sustain the new knowledge instilled in him quicker versus using punishment or harsh corrections.
Before you know it, you will recognize your puppy wanting to be trained. The happier your pup is, the more he will be excited to be trained and have willingness to learn.
Patience in yourself is strongly encouraged as your puppy is still a young little guy and doesn't understand what exactly you are trying to accomplish in the beginning. Being realistic and understanding of this will increase his chances of successfully mastering his training.
This information will be new to you pup. Move past the shortcomings and focus on his journey, starting from where he came from when you brought him home.
This part of your puppy's life is very important. Once your puppy senses that you are enjoying the training exercises as much as he is, you will be able to create a strong, trusting bond with him that will last a lifetime.
How to take care of your new kitten.
The first step toward having a good pet cat is choosing a healthy kitten. Visit a litter of kittens about two weeks before they are ready to leave their mother. They will be six weeks old. Ask permission to pick up the kittens and be very gentle when to do so. Make sure that a kitten has clear, bright eyes and a shiny, full coat. Check the skin under the fur for any problems such as sores, rashes or bald spots. You want to choose a kitten that has healthy skin.
Next, make sure that the kitten is neither too thin nor too fat. A kitten that is either all skin and bones or has a bloated belly is likely to have an infection. Do not select such a kitten. Also check the kitten's nose and ears for any sign of discharge or infection.
While you are checking for signs of physical health, take note of the kitten's temperament. Carry the kitten to another part of the room and watch how it behaves. Is it nervous or scared? Does it respond to gentle petting by growing calmer? You want a kitten that adjusts quickly to you. This is a sign it has been handled by the owners of the litter, which is important in preparing the kitten for living with people.
It is extremely important to start out with a friendly cat. A scratching, hissing or terribly frightened kitten will grow up to be a difficult cat at best. At worst, the kitten will never become a friendly, loving pet.
After you have chosen a kitten that you like, make arrangements to pick it up when it is ready to leave its mother (when it is about eight weeks old). A day or two after you get your new kitten, take it to a veterinarian (an animal doctor). The vet will give it the first in a series of shots to protect it against common cat diseases. Tell the vet if you intend to let the cat outdoors. If you do intend to let it out, the kitten may need a shot to protect it against rabies.
The vet will also examine the kitten for signs of disease. Bring along sample of the kitten's dropping so that the doctor can check for worms.
If the vet gives you medicine for the kitten, make sure that you or one of your parents understands how to give medicine. Ask the vet or the vet's assistant to show the proper method. Give the medicine to the kitten exactly as directed by the vet. Twice a day is not good enough if the kitten is supposed to get medicine three times a day.
Young kittens like to eat every few hours, about four times a day. At each meal, serve a saucer of fresh milk alongside a small dish of dry cat food. For one or two of the meals, mix in canned food (meat or fish). If the kitten gets diarrhea, switch to powdered milk. If the diarrhea continues, reduce the amount of milk and the number of meals at which it is served.
Kittens love occasional treats, such as fresh liver, kidney or cottage cheese. But dry cat food is the best thing for a steady diet. Keep treats to once or twice a week.
As the kitten grows older, you can gradually reduce the number of meals. At six months, two meals each day are adequate. At one year, one meal a day is all that is needed. If your cat pesters you for a second meal, give a little more than half of the one-meal portion twice a day. The size of portions is usually recommended on the cat food box.
For your new kitten, and later your adult cat, keep a bowl filled with fresh water all times.
Although your kitten will decide for itself where it will sleep, it might enjoy a soft, snug spot you prepare for it. A fluffy, clean hand towel folded and placed in a shoe box that sits on its side, could make an attractive bed for your kitten. But the kitten may just decide to perch itself on a chair instead.
You will have to help your kitten get used to using a litter box to go to the bathroom. Getting your cat used to a litter box is usually easy, because cats are naturally clean and like to bury their droppings. A litter box is nothing more than a shallow rectangular container. The easiest kind to use is made of soft plastic. Into this you pour cat litter, which is sold in stores. Cover the bottom of the litter box with about two inches of cat litter.
Take your kitten to its litter box as soon you bring it home. Sometimes that first visit is all is needed. But until you are sure that the kitten understands, take it there after each feeding.
Sometimes cats will not use a litter box if something about the particular brand of litter is not to their liking. Occasionally they will avoid the box if its location is not private enough. Try to solve these problems if the kitten does not use the litter box from the start.
About the only unpleasant task involved in owning a cat is cleaning the litter box every two or three days. If you do not clean it, the box will begin to smell.
Empty all the used litter into a paper or plastic bag and take it outside to the garbage. Then wash the litter box with soap and water. Put the newly filled box back in the same place, so that you do not upset your cat's routine.
If you plan on allowing your cat to go to outside, you may decide to let it go to bathroom outdoors. In this case, do not provide a litter box. Instead, take your new kitten outdoors to a spot where there is a patch of dirt in which it can dig and burry. After a few days, the kitten will wait by the door to be let out. Some people even install little cat doors so that their pets can come and go as they please.
An outdoor cat should wear a collar with an identification tag on it. The tag should give that cat's name as well as your name and address.
Now that you know how to make your kitten feel welcome in its new home, it is time for you and your kitten to get to know one another.
Next, make sure that the kitten is neither too thin nor too fat. A kitten that is either all skin and bones or has a bloated belly is likely to have an infection. Do not select such a kitten. Also check the kitten's nose and ears for any sign of discharge or infection.
While you are checking for signs of physical health, take note of the kitten's temperament. Carry the kitten to another part of the room and watch how it behaves. Is it nervous or scared? Does it respond to gentle petting by growing calmer? You want a kitten that adjusts quickly to you. This is a sign it has been handled by the owners of the litter, which is important in preparing the kitten for living with people.
It is extremely important to start out with a friendly cat. A scratching, hissing or terribly frightened kitten will grow up to be a difficult cat at best. At worst, the kitten will never become a friendly, loving pet.
After you have chosen a kitten that you like, make arrangements to pick it up when it is ready to leave its mother (when it is about eight weeks old). A day or two after you get your new kitten, take it to a veterinarian (an animal doctor). The vet will give it the first in a series of shots to protect it against common cat diseases. Tell the vet if you intend to let the cat outdoors. If you do intend to let it out, the kitten may need a shot to protect it against rabies.
The vet will also examine the kitten for signs of disease. Bring along sample of the kitten's dropping so that the doctor can check for worms.
If the vet gives you medicine for the kitten, make sure that you or one of your parents understands how to give medicine. Ask the vet or the vet's assistant to show the proper method. Give the medicine to the kitten exactly as directed by the vet. Twice a day is not good enough if the kitten is supposed to get medicine three times a day.
Young kittens like to eat every few hours, about four times a day. At each meal, serve a saucer of fresh milk alongside a small dish of dry cat food. For one or two of the meals, mix in canned food (meat or fish). If the kitten gets diarrhea, switch to powdered milk. If the diarrhea continues, reduce the amount of milk and the number of meals at which it is served.
Kittens love occasional treats, such as fresh liver, kidney or cottage cheese. But dry cat food is the best thing for a steady diet. Keep treats to once or twice a week.
As the kitten grows older, you can gradually reduce the number of meals. At six months, two meals each day are adequate. At one year, one meal a day is all that is needed. If your cat pesters you for a second meal, give a little more than half of the one-meal portion twice a day. The size of portions is usually recommended on the cat food box.
For your new kitten, and later your adult cat, keep a bowl filled with fresh water all times.
Although your kitten will decide for itself where it will sleep, it might enjoy a soft, snug spot you prepare for it. A fluffy, clean hand towel folded and placed in a shoe box that sits on its side, could make an attractive bed for your kitten. But the kitten may just decide to perch itself on a chair instead.
You will have to help your kitten get used to using a litter box to go to the bathroom. Getting your cat used to a litter box is usually easy, because cats are naturally clean and like to bury their droppings. A litter box is nothing more than a shallow rectangular container. The easiest kind to use is made of soft plastic. Into this you pour cat litter, which is sold in stores. Cover the bottom of the litter box with about two inches of cat litter.
Take your kitten to its litter box as soon you bring it home. Sometimes that first visit is all is needed. But until you are sure that the kitten understands, take it there after each feeding.
Sometimes cats will not use a litter box if something about the particular brand of litter is not to their liking. Occasionally they will avoid the box if its location is not private enough. Try to solve these problems if the kitten does not use the litter box from the start.
About the only unpleasant task involved in owning a cat is cleaning the litter box every two or three days. If you do not clean it, the box will begin to smell.
Empty all the used litter into a paper or plastic bag and take it outside to the garbage. Then wash the litter box with soap and water. Put the newly filled box back in the same place, so that you do not upset your cat's routine.
If you plan on allowing your cat to go to outside, you may decide to let it go to bathroom outdoors. In this case, do not provide a litter box. Instead, take your new kitten outdoors to a spot where there is a patch of dirt in which it can dig and burry. After a few days, the kitten will wait by the door to be let out. Some people even install little cat doors so that their pets can come and go as they please.
An outdoor cat should wear a collar with an identification tag on it. The tag should give that cat's name as well as your name and address.
Now that you know how to make your kitten feel welcome in its new home, it is time for you and your kitten to get to know one another.
Great article when buying a pup! (copied from Humane society of America site)
Questions to ask yourself, and how to prepare for a new pup
The first step on the road to pet ownership is to ask yourself some tough questions: Why do you want a puppy? Can you afford one? Are you prepared to take care of a dog every day for his entire life?
If you've decided you're ready for a dog, follow The HSUS' top five puppy buying tips and you'll be far more likely to secure a healthy, well-socialized dog who doesn't drain your emotions or your pocketbook. One, in other words, who doesn't come from a puppy mill.
1. Consider adoption. Adopting a dog instead of buying one is one of the surest ways to strike a blow against puppy mills. To find the perfect match, you'll want to choose the right one for you and your lifestyle. Animal shelters have dozens of dogs, many of them purebreds, just waiting for homes. There are also breed specific rescue groups for every breed of dog, including "designer" or "hybrids" like Labradoodles and Puggles. Mixed-breed dogs also make wonderful pets. Read more about adopting a puppy through a shelter or breed rescue group »
2. Find a responsible breeder and visit their premises. Responsible breeders provide a loving and healthy environment for their canine companions, one that they will be proud to show you. Never buy a puppy without seeing where they and their parents are raised and housed with your own eyes. Read more on how to find a responsible dog breeder »
3. Don't be fooled by common claims made by pet stores when pushing their puppies. Despite what they may tell you, pet stores do sell puppy mill puppies. Read more about the false claims commonly made by pet stores at the Pet Store Doublespeak page »
4. Don't be swayed by a great website or ad. Just because a website says great things about their "home raised" or "family raised" puppies doesn't make it true. Many puppy millers pose as small family breeders online and in newspaper and magazine ads. For many years The HSUS has aided local authorities in the rescue of puppy mill dogs across the nation. In almost all cases the puppy mills sold puppies via the Internet using legitimate-looking ads or websites that made claims that couldn't have been farther from the truth.
5. Avoid the temptation to "rescue" a puppy mill puppy by buying him. Even though your intentions may be good, don't buy a puppy with the idea that you are "rescuing" him or her. Your "rescue" opens up space for another puppy mill puppy and puts money into the pockets of the puppy mill industry. Pet stores won't leave their cages empty and websites won't leave their pages blank. The money you spend on your puppy goes right back to the puppy mill operator and ensures they will continue breeding and treating dogs inhumanely. If you see someone keeping puppies in poor conditions, alert your local animal control authorities instead of buying.
6. Do your part: Pledge to help stop puppy mills! Choose not to buy your next pet from a pet store or Internet site, and refuse to buy supplies from any pet store or Internet site that sells puppies.
The first step on the road to pet ownership is to ask yourself some tough questions: Why do you want a puppy? Can you afford one? Are you prepared to take care of a dog every day for his entire life?
If you've decided you're ready for a dog, follow The HSUS' top five puppy buying tips and you'll be far more likely to secure a healthy, well-socialized dog who doesn't drain your emotions or your pocketbook. One, in other words, who doesn't come from a puppy mill.
1. Consider adoption. Adopting a dog instead of buying one is one of the surest ways to strike a blow against puppy mills. To find the perfect match, you'll want to choose the right one for you and your lifestyle. Animal shelters have dozens of dogs, many of them purebreds, just waiting for homes. There are also breed specific rescue groups for every breed of dog, including "designer" or "hybrids" like Labradoodles and Puggles. Mixed-breed dogs also make wonderful pets. Read more about adopting a puppy through a shelter or breed rescue group »
2. Find a responsible breeder and visit their premises. Responsible breeders provide a loving and healthy environment for their canine companions, one that they will be proud to show you. Never buy a puppy without seeing where they and their parents are raised and housed with your own eyes. Read more on how to find a responsible dog breeder »
3. Don't be fooled by common claims made by pet stores when pushing their puppies. Despite what they may tell you, pet stores do sell puppy mill puppies. Read more about the false claims commonly made by pet stores at the Pet Store Doublespeak page »
4. Don't be swayed by a great website or ad. Just because a website says great things about their "home raised" or "family raised" puppies doesn't make it true. Many puppy millers pose as small family breeders online and in newspaper and magazine ads. For many years The HSUS has aided local authorities in the rescue of puppy mill dogs across the nation. In almost all cases the puppy mills sold puppies via the Internet using legitimate-looking ads or websites that made claims that couldn't have been farther from the truth.
5. Avoid the temptation to "rescue" a puppy mill puppy by buying him. Even though your intentions may be good, don't buy a puppy with the idea that you are "rescuing" him or her. Your "rescue" opens up space for another puppy mill puppy and puts money into the pockets of the puppy mill industry. Pet stores won't leave their cages empty and websites won't leave their pages blank. The money you spend on your puppy goes right back to the puppy mill operator and ensures they will continue breeding and treating dogs inhumanely. If you see someone keeping puppies in poor conditions, alert your local animal control authorities instead of buying.
6. Do your part: Pledge to help stop puppy mills! Choose not to buy your next pet from a pet store or Internet site, and refuse to buy supplies from any pet store or Internet site that sells puppies.
Seat belts...not just for humans.
Of the many products you see in pet stores, one that stands out, are dog seat belts. Almost everybody who has taken a dog for a car ride, has experienced him bouncing around in the car getting a look out the window. When you turn or stop, he goes crashing into the front seat. In either, and many other situations, a dog seat belt would be helpful. Dog seat belts are available in many colors, styles, and sizes to suit any dog and his master. Average prices range from $10 to $30 dollars depending if you want a harness, mesh harness, or tether that just hooks to his collar (ideal for dogs that dislike harnesses). Seat belts, especially the harnesses, restrain the dog in a comfortable sitting position, keeping him secure in the case of a accident. Another option, if you own a very small breed, is to purchase a dog booster seat. These, for smaller dogs, keep him more secure than a plain belt, and also give him a view out the window. Before purchasing a seat belt or booster seat, measure your dog to make sure it will fit him, and be sure you pick the right one to insure he's comfortable. Also see if your dog will tolerate a seat belt, keeping in mind that small breeds will probably be less tolerant. A proper fitting seat belt will make sure your canine friend is safe, secure, and comfortable, the next time you go for a ride.
Fresh clean water for your pet...all the time!
Have you ever came home on a hot day in summer, to find your pets water bowl empty, warm, or floating with kibbles? Dogs and cats enjoy cool, fresh water, which is hard to provide, especially if you are gone for hours on end. For active or outdoor dogs, this can be dangerous, giving them dehydration. The fact is,dogs and cats like cool running water, but once again, this is hard to provide. The solution to this problem is a pet water fountain.. Pet water fountains provide fresh,cool, flowing water, stored in a reservoir and dispensed by a electric pump. When your pet is sensed next to it it turns on, or in some models it just runs continually. In some cases, these fountains cure toilet bowl drinkers, giving them the alternative they want. Make sure you have a plug nearby, but if you don't, some run off battery power, but these types are hard to find. Depending on how much you want to spend, and the availability in your area, there are many choices of fountains. Some fountains cool your pets water using the same technology as a water cooler, and most filter and clean the water, keeping your pets bowl free from contaminants. If you have a tap nearby, some fountains connect to a water supply, providing endless water to your pet. There are also many different types of dispensers. Some look like a conventional dog fountain you might see at a park, shooting a small stream of water a few inches in the air. Others may drip, pour, or run down a slide. Most fountains for dogs have a small bowl, where the water pools up, ideal for dogs that like to lap. Cats always lap water, so make sure you buy a cat fountain for your cat, providing a steady stream which runs down a slide into a small pool of water, perfect for cats. A good quality fountain (for a very good price) is a PetMate Fresh Flow Fountain available for dogs or cats, for $24.99 at PetEdge.com. Fountains include two charcoal filters, replacement filters sell for $1.50 each. These fountains contain a slide, pool, 50-108 oz reservoir, an adjustable stream, and are powered by a wall outlet. They come in almond, black, and three sizes for dogs or cats. For those who dislike internet shopping, this fountain should be available at your local PETCO. Remember to stay hydrated!
Constant pulling on the leash? Helpfull products are here!
Leash pulling, almost all dogs do it. For some dogs, its an easily stopped habit, with a little training, he never pulls again. For others (including my dog) daily walks are needed to keep him trained. But for some stubborn dogs, it seems like nothing will stop him from taking his owner for a walk. So for this month, I am going to review a few great anti-pull products, some which will work better for certain dogs than for others. I will also provide the basic costs for each product, keep in mind though, these are only estimates and depend on the quality of the product. 1.The most simple type of anti-pull device is the choke chain. Though debated whether cruel or not, it works great on aggressive dogs, which will probably ignore other methods when aggressing other dogs. Choke chains, which can also be made out of rope, nylon, etc. constrict on a dogs neck when he pulls, causing "choking" until the dog stops pulling. ($1.00-10.00) 2. A more gentle approach to pulling is a Head collar or Non pulling harness. The Head collar fits over a dogs muzzle, and gently redirects the dogs muzzle when he pulls or jerks, causing him to simply redirect his attention. These are said to work great on softer willed breeds such as Golden Retrievers, Labradors, Spaniels, and dog of those origins. Non pulling harnesses are about the same concept, except they constrict over a dogs breastbone, merely causing a temporary discomfort until the dog ceases his behavior. ($10.00 &$15.00) 3. This one-of-a-kind anti-pull device is taking Europe by storm. The Patento Pet® Dog-e-Walk is a high quality German designed product getting great results everywhere. The Dog-e-walk connects to your dogs leash, and then to your dogs collar. When it senses your dog pulling, it emits varying degrees of ultra sonic sounds (depending on how hard your dog is pulling), that are inaudible to human ears. Dogs dislike the sound, and promptly stop the behavior. If you purchase Dog-e-Walk premium, it can also be used as a handheld transmitter, allowing quick, effective corrections anywhere. One word of caution, may be to purchase the Dog-e-Walk at a nearby store, or a internet seller that allows returns. The reason I advise you to do this is because some dogs, especially older dogs with hearing problems, may completely ignore ultrasonic sounds, rendering the product ineffective. If you've used ultra sonic products on your dog before, and he has responded, then there shouldn't be any reason why he wouldn't respond to the Dog-e-Walk. (Basic $31.99, Premium $50.00) These products are available at PetEdge.com, in their monthly catalog, or should be available at your local PETCO or Petsmart. The Dog-e-Walk can also be ordered directly from www.dog-e-walk.com. Enjoy your walk!
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